Rabbit Pappardelle
This is a very rustic creation from Emilia-Romagna and, in my view, there's no tastier pasta dish in Italy. It caused a sensation when I served it in Ann Arbor. The rabbit is slowly roasted, then stewed to make the most fantastic, rich meat sauce, and it's served with wide ribbon noodles called pappardelle.
If you want to make this with a whole rabbit, remember that some parts will cook more quickly than others; I find it easier just to roast a few legs. If rabbit is not your thing substitute chicken thighs.
Serves 4-6
500g pappardelle
4 rabbit legs
50ml olive oil
knob of butter
1 small carrot, finely chopped
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 celery stick, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 sprigs fresh thyme
2 sprigs fresh rosemary
1 tsp tomato purée
½ glass white wine
about 250ml chicken or vegetable stock
salt and freshly ground black pepper
freshly grated Parmesan, to serve
small handful freshly chopped flat-leaf parsley, to serve
Season the rabbit legs. Heat the olive oil and butter in a pan, add the rabbit legs and brown on all sides.
Remove the rabbit from the pan, add the vegetables, garlic and herbs and cook for 4-5 minutes, or until evenly coloured.
Return the rabbit legs to the pan and add the tomato purée. Cook for 2 minutes, then add the wine and turn up the heat to bubble then reduce.
Pour over enough stock to cover, then place a cartouche (circle of baking parchment) on top and cook on a low simmer until the meat comes away easily from the bones. This will take about 45 minutes.
Remove the rabbit and set aside until cool enough to handle. Lightly shred the meat into small pieces. Discard the bones.
Strain the stock, discarding the vegetables, and return to a clean pan. Add the rabbit pieces to the stock and place over a medium heat. Simmer until reduced and thick.
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and cook the pappardelle for 4-5 minutes, or until al dente. Drain and toss with the rabbit sauce. Serve scattered with the freshly grated Parmesan and chopped parsley.
The best meat dishes
Tagliatelle with Peas and Parma Ham
This is a great, simple dish for summer, perfect to make when fresh peas are in season (or you can use frozen peas).
If you are feeding vegetarians, you can simply substitute goat's cheese or ricotta instead of Parma ham. Both are delicious.
Serves 4
480g tagliatelle
200g fresh peas, podded weight
50ml olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
1 garlic clove, crushed
handful freshly chopped mint
handful freshly grated parmesan
8 slices Parma ham or 200g soft goat's cheese, crumbled
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Bring a medium pan of salted water to the boil. Add the peas and cook for 2-3 minutes. Drain and plunge into iced water. Set aside.
Heat the olive oil in a pan over a low heat and add the garlic. Cook for 1 minute, then add the drained peas and cook for a further 2-3 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and cook the tagliatelle until al dente.
Drain and add to the pea mixture. Toss well, then season to taste and add the chopped mint and drizzle of olive oil.
Sprinkle in the parmesan and drape over the Parma ham or scatter with the goat's cheese before serving.
Penne Bolognese
I used to wonder why Nonna would spend ages cutting up beef for Bolognese sauce, rather than using minced beef bought from the butcher. The answer is because it tastes so much better. Traditionally this is the way it's always made.Serves 4
2 tbsp olive oil
2 celery sticks, finely chopped
2 carrots, finely chopped
½ onion, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
500g chuck steak, finely diced
150g veal rump, finely diced
3 tbsp tomato purée
100ml white or red wine
300-500ml water or chicken stock
400g dried penne
salt and freshly ground black pepper
handful of freshly grated parmesan, to serve
Heat the olive oil over a low heat in a heavy-based pan. When hot, add the vegetables and garlic and cook gently, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking, but do not allow to colour. Add the diced meat and colour slightly for a minute or two. Add the tomato purée and cook for 4-5 minutes (this ensures it acts as a thickening agent and does not overpower the meat).
Add the wine, turn up the heat a little and allow to bubble and reduce. Cover with the water or stock and stir well.
Cover with a cartouche (a circle of baking parchment). A good Bolognese should cook for at least 3-4 hours over a very low heat, but check it every hour and give it a stir. If necessary, add a touch of water so it does not dry out. When cooked, it should have formed a lovely thick sauce.
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and cook the penne for 10 minutes or according to packet instructions, until al dente.
Drain and add to the Bolognese, then season to taste and toss well. Serve sprinkled with parmesan.
Rigatoni with Tomato and Pancetta
This is another quick and cheerful supper: if you don't have any pancetta, use smoked bacon. You can also throw in a few fresh or frozen peas if you like.
Serves 4
500g rigatoni
1 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
200g pancetta, diced
1 quantity basic tomato sauce (see below)
1 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
generous handful of freshly grated parmesan
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and add the rigatoni. Reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes, or according to packet instructions, until al dente but not overcooked.
Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook, tossing occasionally, until it is golden brown on all sides. This should take no more than about 3-4 minutes.
Add the tomato sauce to the pancetta, reduce the heat and simmer gently for 2-3 minutes.
Drain the rigatoni and add it to the tomato sauce. Check the seasoning and adjust if at all necessary.
Stir in the parsley and serve immediately with parmesan and a drizzle of olive oil.
Crab Linguine
You'll need the freshest possible crab meat for this. If you're feeling brave you can buy a live crab and cook it yourself, but it's fine to get it precooked from your fishmonger. The key is to add it near the end to avoid overcooking. This dish is also lovely made with soft-shelled crab.
Serves 4
320g dried linguine
2 tbsp olive oil
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
4 spring onions, finely chopped
1/2 tsp finely chopped fresh red chilli
300g picked fresh white crab meat
25ml dry white wine
1 tbsp chopped fresh flatleaf parsley
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and cook the linguine for 7-8 minutes, or according to packet instructions, until al dente.
Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large, deep frying pan and add the garlic, spring onions and chilli. Fry lightly without allowing to colour for 1 minute. Stir in the crab meat and heat through for another minute. Add the wine to the pan and allow to bubble and reduce completely.
Drain the linguine and add to the crab mixture. Stir in the parsley and toss everything together to coat evenly. Season to taste and serve immediately.
Spaghetti alle Vongole
In the US I find that Italian food tends to be very spiced up, which is not really authentic. A hint of chilli is sometimes found in southern Italian dishes such as this, but it should not overpower the other flavours.
Serves 4
300-350g dried spaghetti
2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
1/2 tsp de-seeded and finely sliced fresh red chilli
2 garlic cloves, finely sliced
500g small clams, scrubbed
splash of white wine
2 tbsp finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and cook the spaghetti for about 7-8 minutes, or according to packet instructions, until al dente.
Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large, deep frying pan over a medium heat. Add the chilli and garlic and cook for 3-4 minutes, or until soft but not coloured. Add the clams to the pan along with the wine. Cover and cook over a fairly high heat for 2-3 minutes, or until the clams open.
Remove from the heat, then pick out and discard any clams that have not opened.
Drain the spaghetti and add to the clams. Stir in the parsley and drizzle over a touch of olive oil if it looks a bit dry. Season to taste and serve immediately.
Lobster Spaghetti
Except for grilling, this is undoubtedly the best way to eat lobster. Use very fresh tomatoes for the sauce, and have only a touch of it - you mustn't overwhelm the delicate lobster. Always use dried spaghetti for this dish - it has a better consistency and is less sticky than fresh pasta.
Serves 4
2 live lobsters about 600-800g each
300g dried spaghetti
50ml olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
2 fresh red chillies, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
4 spring onions, finely chopped
3 tbsp white wine
4 large plum tomatoes, quartered, seeded and cut into 1cm dice
2 tbsp chopped fresh flatleaf parsley
2 tbsp chopped fresh basil (chopped at last minute)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Place the lobsters in the freezer for a couple of hours before you cook them. This will send them to sleep.
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and then drop in your lobsters. Cook for 6-8 minutes until the lobsters have turned bright red in colour. Remove and set aside to drain and cool a little.
To remove the meat from the lobster, first twist off each claw and leg joint. Using lobster crackers or the back of a heavy knife, crack the claw and then twist out the lobster meat. Peel off the shell to access all the meat inside. Next twist the tail from the body by bending it back. Squeeze the sides of the tail together until they crack, and pull the tail meat out in one go. Remove the dark vein running down the back of the tail. Cut the meat into bite-sized pieces and set aside.
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and cook the pasta for 7-8 minutes, or according to the packet instructions, until al dente.
Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in another large pan and add the chillies, garlic and spring onions. Season well and cook gently, stirring, for 1-2 minutes without colouring. Add the lobster meat and then the wine. Add a little more seasoning, then allow the wine to bubble and reduce right down for 2-3 minutes. Don't cook for longer than this or the lobster will go rubbery. Add the tomatoes, cook for one minute, then remove from the heat. Drain the pasta and add to the sauce. Toss well, then stir in the herbs, season to taste and serve drizzled with olive oil.
The easiest pastas to make
Tagliatelle with Summer Truffle
The best truffles are gathered in the winter, but since just a small one could cost up to £80, why not try the more economical summer variety, as used in this recipe?
Serves 4
This is a very simple Italian standby dish. It can be quickly put together after a busy day at work because it uses just store-cupboard basics. Beware: the peperoncini can be very spicy.
Serves 2
240g dried spaghetti
2-3 tbsp olive oil
1 garlic clove, finely sliced
2 peperoncini (dried red chillies), crushed
1-2 tbsp chopped fresh flatleaf parsley
salt and freshly ground black pepper
freshly grated parmesan to serve
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Add the spaghetti and stir as it starts to cook. Boil for 7-8 minutes, or according to packet instructions, until the pasta is al dente.
Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large deep frying pan, add the garlic and peperoncini and cook for 30 seconds, until soft, but without colouring.
Remove from the heat and set aside. Drain the cooked spaghetti and toss with the peperoncini and garlic. Stir in the chopped parsley, season to taste and scatter with parmesan before serving immediately.
Basic Tomato Sauce
It's difficult to get really flavoursome tomatoes outside the Mediterranean, so don't be afraid to make sauces using canned plum tomatoes instead. My tip is to add a little sugar to cut through the acidity of the tomatoes - you'll be amazed at the difference it makes to the finished sauce.
Makes 4-6 portions
4 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
1 onion, finely chopped
2 x 400g cans plum tomatoes
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
2 tsp tomato purée
pinch of sugar
1 sprig of fresh rosemary
Heat the olive oil in a pan over a medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 5 minutes, or until soft and translucent. Roughly squash the tomatoes with either your hands or a fork.Add them to the pan along with the garlic, tomato purée, sugar and rosemary.
Lower the heat and simmer for 25-35 minutes, or until the sauce is thick and jam-like in consistency.
Remove the rosemary spring and finish with a drizzle of olive oil. Store in the fridge for up to 4 days, or freeze until ready to use
200g fresh peas, podded weight
50ml olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
1 garlic clove, crushed
handful freshly chopped mint
handful freshly grated parmesan
8 slices Parma ham or 200g soft goat's cheese, crumbled
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Bring a medium pan of salted water to the boil. Add the peas and cook for 2-3 minutes. Drain and plunge into iced water. Set aside.
Heat the olive oil in a pan over a low heat and add the garlic. Cook for 1 minute, then add the drained peas and cook for a further 2-3 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and cook the tagliatelle until al dente.
Drain and add to the pea mixture. Toss well, then season to taste and add the chopped mint and drizzle of olive oil.
Sprinkle in the parmesan and drape over the Parma ham or scatter with the goat's cheese before serving.
Penne Bolognese
I used to wonder why Nonna would spend ages cutting up beef for Bolognese sauce, rather than using minced beef bought from the butcher. The answer is because it tastes so much better. Traditionally this is the way it's always made.Serves 4
2 tbsp olive oil
2 celery sticks, finely chopped
2 carrots, finely chopped
½ onion, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
500g chuck steak, finely diced
150g veal rump, finely diced
3 tbsp tomato purée
100ml white or red wine
300-500ml water or chicken stock
400g dried penne
salt and freshly ground black pepper
handful of freshly grated parmesan, to serve
Heat the olive oil over a low heat in a heavy-based pan. When hot, add the vegetables and garlic and cook gently, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking, but do not allow to colour. Add the diced meat and colour slightly for a minute or two. Add the tomato purée and cook for 4-5 minutes (this ensures it acts as a thickening agent and does not overpower the meat).
Add the wine, turn up the heat a little and allow to bubble and reduce. Cover with the water or stock and stir well.
Cover with a cartouche (a circle of baking parchment). A good Bolognese should cook for at least 3-4 hours over a very low heat, but check it every hour and give it a stir. If necessary, add a touch of water so it does not dry out. When cooked, it should have formed a lovely thick sauce.
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and cook the penne for 10 minutes or according to packet instructions, until al dente.
Drain and add to the Bolognese, then season to taste and toss well. Serve sprinkled with parmesan.
Rigatoni with Tomato and Pancetta
This is another quick and cheerful supper: if you don't have any pancetta, use smoked bacon. You can also throw in a few fresh or frozen peas if you like.
Serves 4
500g rigatoni
1 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
200g pancetta, diced
1 quantity basic tomato sauce (see below)
1 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
generous handful of freshly grated parmesan
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and add the rigatoni. Reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes, or according to packet instructions, until al dente but not overcooked.
Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook, tossing occasionally, until it is golden brown on all sides. This should take no more than about 3-4 minutes.
Add the tomato sauce to the pancetta, reduce the heat and simmer gently for 2-3 minutes.
Drain the rigatoni and add it to the tomato sauce. Check the seasoning and adjust if at all necessary.
Stir in the parsley and serve immediately with parmesan and a drizzle of olive oil.
Crab Linguine
You'll need the freshest possible crab meat for this. If you're feeling brave you can buy a live crab and cook it yourself, but it's fine to get it precooked from your fishmonger. The key is to add it near the end to avoid overcooking. This dish is also lovely made with soft-shelled crab.
Serves 4
320g dried linguine
2 tbsp olive oil
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
4 spring onions, finely chopped
1/2 tsp finely chopped fresh red chilli
300g picked fresh white crab meat
25ml dry white wine
1 tbsp chopped fresh flatleaf parsley
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and cook the linguine for 7-8 minutes, or according to packet instructions, until al dente.
Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large, deep frying pan and add the garlic, spring onions and chilli. Fry lightly without allowing to colour for 1 minute. Stir in the crab meat and heat through for another minute. Add the wine to the pan and allow to bubble and reduce completely.
Drain the linguine and add to the crab mixture. Stir in the parsley and toss everything together to coat evenly. Season to taste and serve immediately.
Spaghetti alle Vongole
In the US I find that Italian food tends to be very spiced up, which is not really authentic. A hint of chilli is sometimes found in southern Italian dishes such as this, but it should not overpower the other flavours.
Serves 4
300-350g dried spaghetti
2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
1/2 tsp de-seeded and finely sliced fresh red chilli
2 garlic cloves, finely sliced
500g small clams, scrubbed
splash of white wine
2 tbsp finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and cook the spaghetti for about 7-8 minutes, or according to packet instructions, until al dente.
Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large, deep frying pan over a medium heat. Add the chilli and garlic and cook for 3-4 minutes, or until soft but not coloured. Add the clams to the pan along with the wine. Cover and cook over a fairly high heat for 2-3 minutes, or until the clams open.
Remove from the heat, then pick out and discard any clams that have not opened.
Drain the spaghetti and add to the clams. Stir in the parsley and drizzle over a touch of olive oil if it looks a bit dry. Season to taste and serve immediately.
Lobster Spaghetti
Except for grilling, this is undoubtedly the best way to eat lobster. Use very fresh tomatoes for the sauce, and have only a touch of it - you mustn't overwhelm the delicate lobster. Always use dried spaghetti for this dish - it has a better consistency and is less sticky than fresh pasta.
Serves 4
2 live lobsters about 600-800g each
300g dried spaghetti
50ml olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
2 fresh red chillies, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
4 spring onions, finely chopped
3 tbsp white wine
4 large plum tomatoes, quartered, seeded and cut into 1cm dice
2 tbsp chopped fresh flatleaf parsley
2 tbsp chopped fresh basil (chopped at last minute)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Place the lobsters in the freezer for a couple of hours before you cook them. This will send them to sleep.
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and then drop in your lobsters. Cook for 6-8 minutes until the lobsters have turned bright red in colour. Remove and set aside to drain and cool a little.
To remove the meat from the lobster, first twist off each claw and leg joint. Using lobster crackers or the back of a heavy knife, crack the claw and then twist out the lobster meat. Peel off the shell to access all the meat inside. Next twist the tail from the body by bending it back. Squeeze the sides of the tail together until they crack, and pull the tail meat out in one go. Remove the dark vein running down the back of the tail. Cut the meat into bite-sized pieces and set aside.
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and cook the pasta for 7-8 minutes, or according to the packet instructions, until al dente.
Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in another large pan and add the chillies, garlic and spring onions. Season well and cook gently, stirring, for 1-2 minutes without colouring. Add the lobster meat and then the wine. Add a little more seasoning, then allow the wine to bubble and reduce right down for 2-3 minutes. Don't cook for longer than this or the lobster will go rubbery. Add the tomatoes, cook for one minute, then remove from the heat. Drain the pasta and add to the sauce. Toss well, then stir in the herbs, season to taste and serve drizzled with olive oil.
The easiest pastas to make
Tagliatelle with Summer Truffle
The best truffles are gathered in the winter, but since just a small one could cost up to £80, why not try the more economical summer variety, as used in this recipe?
Serves 4
480g dried tagliatelle
150g butter
100ml vegetable or chicken stock
30g summer truffle, very finely sliced
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Put the butter and stock into a small pan over a low heat. When the butter has melted, whisk to form a sauce. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Add the tagliatelle and cook for 3-4 minutes, until al dente. Drain well, then toss with the butter sauce. Season to taste and serve immediately, topped with the truffle slices.
Spaghetti with Peperoncini and Garlic
150g butter
100ml vegetable or chicken stock
30g summer truffle, very finely sliced
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Put the butter and stock into a small pan over a low heat. When the butter has melted, whisk to form a sauce. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Add the tagliatelle and cook for 3-4 minutes, until al dente. Drain well, then toss with the butter sauce. Season to taste and serve immediately, topped with the truffle slices.
Spaghetti with Peperoncini and Garlic
This is a very simple Italian standby dish. It can be quickly put together after a busy day at work because it uses just store-cupboard basics. Beware: the peperoncini can be very spicy.
Serves 2
240g dried spaghetti
2-3 tbsp olive oil
1 garlic clove, finely sliced
2 peperoncini (dried red chillies), crushed
1-2 tbsp chopped fresh flatleaf parsley
salt and freshly ground black pepper
freshly grated parmesan to serve
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Add the spaghetti and stir as it starts to cook. Boil for 7-8 minutes, or according to packet instructions, until the pasta is al dente.
Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large deep frying pan, add the garlic and peperoncini and cook for 30 seconds, until soft, but without colouring.
Remove from the heat and set aside. Drain the cooked spaghetti and toss with the peperoncini and garlic. Stir in the chopped parsley, season to taste and scatter with parmesan before serving immediately.
Basic Tomato Sauce
It's difficult to get really flavoursome tomatoes outside the Mediterranean, so don't be afraid to make sauces using canned plum tomatoes instead. My tip is to add a little sugar to cut through the acidity of the tomatoes - you'll be amazed at the difference it makes to the finished sauce.
Makes 4-6 portions
4 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
1 onion, finely chopped
2 x 400g cans plum tomatoes
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
2 tsp tomato purée
pinch of sugar
1 sprig of fresh rosemary
Heat the olive oil in a pan over a medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 5 minutes, or until soft and translucent. Roughly squash the tomatoes with either your hands or a fork.Add them to the pan along with the garlic, tomato purée, sugar and rosemary.
Lower the heat and simmer for 25-35 minutes, or until the sauce is thick and jam-like in consistency.
Remove the rosemary spring and finish with a drizzle of olive oil. Store in the fridge for up to 4 days, or freeze until ready to use
No comments:
Post a Comment