Sunday, July 28, 2019

OSSO BUCCO

Slow Cooker Osso Bucco

There are two tricks to this otherwise hands-off recipe: browning the veal shanks before they go into the slow cooker and reducing the sauce before serving (if you have a slow-cooker with a stovetop-safe insert, you don’t even have to dirty another pan). The result is an osso buco you’d be hard-pressed to distinguish from the labor-intensive classic (trust us). Serve it with saffron-scented Risotto alla Milanese, like they do in Italy.

Ingredients

  • 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
  • Four 1-1/2- to 2-inch-thick veal shanks (about 2-1/2 lb.)
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  • 1 cup dry white wine
  • One 14-1/2-oz. can diced tomatoes
  • 3/4 cup lower-salt chicken broth
  • 1 small red onion, chopped (1-1/2 cups)
  • 1 medium carrot, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch-thick rounds (1/2 cup)
  • 1 stalk celery, chopped (1/2 cup)
  • 5 sprigs fresh thyme
  • 3 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  • 1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest
  • 1 large clove garlic, minced (1 tsp.)

Nutritional Information

Preparation

  • Put the flour in a wide, shallow dish. Season the veal shanks all over with salt and pepper and dredge in the flour; shake off the excess flour.Heat a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the butter, and when it foams, add the shanks to the skillet. Cook until golden, turning once, about 10 minutes. Transfer the shanks to a slow cooker.
    Add the wine to the skillet. Scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the skillet and pour the contents of the skillet into the slow cooker. Add the tomatoes and their juices, chicken broth, onion, carrot, celery, and thyme. Cover and cook on low heat for 6 to 8 hours—the meat will be very tender and almost falling off the bone.
    Transfer the shanks to a platter and cover with foil to keep warm. Pour the sauce from the slow cooker into a large skillet. Simmer over medium heat until reduced to about 2 cups, 10 to 15 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
    Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the parsley, lemon zest, and garlic to make a gremolata. Serve the veal shanks topped with the sauce and the gremolata.
Make the entire meal a classic: Serve with Risotto alla Milanese (Risotto with Parmesan & Saffron).

Osso Bucco


Servings: 6
This classic braised veal from northern Italy is the world’s best make-ahead dish—it tastes amazing on the second day. The classic accompaniment is saffron-scented Risotto alla Milanese. For a slightly simpler take on this classic, try our Slow-Cooker Osso Buco.

Ingredients

  • 6 1-1/4 inch-thick veal shanks
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/2 cup all-purpose flour for dredging
  • 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 Tbs. unsalted butter
  • 3 cups finely diced yellow onion (about 2 medium onions)
  • 1 cup finely diced celery (about 2 stalks)
  • 3/4 cup finely diced carrot (about 2 small carrots)
  • 1 tsp. dried oregano
  • 3/4 cup dry white wine
  • 2 Tbs. tomato paste
  • 1 28-oz. can Italian plum tomatoes, drained and chopped, juices reserved
  • 1 cup low-salt chicken broth, more if needed
  • 1 large sprig thyme
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 Tbs. arrowroot mixed with 2 tsp. broth or water

For the gremolata:

  • 3 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  • 2 large cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest
  • 2 anchovy fillets, minced

Nutritional Information

Preparation

  • Heat the oven to 350°F.
  • Tie the veal shanks around the middle with kitchen string (if they’re not tied already) and season them with salt and pepper. Put the flour in a dish. Dredge the shanks very lightly in flour, thoroughly shaking off the excess.
  • Have ready a roasting pan or baking dish large enough to hold the shanks in a single layer (9×13-inch works well). In a large heavy skillet, heat 3 Tbs. of the oil over medium-high heat. Put three veal shanks in the pan and sear until nicely browned on both sides, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Move the shanks to the roasting pan. Repeat with the remaining three shanks.
  • Carefully pour off the fat in the pan and wipe it out with paper towels (it’s fine if the browned bits remain in the pan bottom; just wipe away the used oil). Return the pan to medium heat and add the butter and remaining 1 Tbs. of oil. When the butter is melted, add the onion, celery, carrot, oregano, and 1 tsp. salt. Cook the vegetables, stirring occasionally, until soft and lightly browned, 15 to 20 minutes. Increase the heat to medium-high, add the wine, and cook, scraping up any brown bits with a wooden spoon, until the wine is reduced to about 1/4 cup, about 3 minutes
  • Stir in the tomato paste. Add the tomatoes with their juices, the broth, thyme, bay leaf, 1/2 tsp. salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Bring to a boil, and pour the contents of the pan over the shanks. Cover tightly with heavy-duty aluminum foil.
  • Braise the veal in the oven until fork-tender, 1-1/2 to 2 hours, checking the liquid occasionally. If it has cooked down, add enough broth to keep the level about halfway up the shanks. To check for doneness, pierce a shank with a fork. The meat should pull apart easily. Taste a morsel—it should feel soft and tender. Do not overcook, or the veal will fall apart.
  • Gently brush most of the vegetable bits off the shanks. With a wide, flat metal spatula, carefully transfer the veal shanks to a dish. Strain the pan juices through a medium-mesh sieve into a saucepan, pressing hard on the solids with a spatula to extract as much sauce as you can. Bring the sauce to a simmer. Whisk in the arrowroot mixture and cook briefly to thicken. If you’re working ahead, stop here (see Make-ahead Tips for reheating).

Make the gremolata:

  • Just before finishing the sauce and serving, combine the parsley, garlic, lemon zest, and anchovies. Add two Tbs. of the gremolata to the sauce. Remove the strings from the shanks. Serve the osso buco topped with the sauce and a small sprinkling of the remaining gremolata.
Make Ahead Tips
To make the osso buco ahead, braise the veal and strain and thicken the sauce with arrowroot. Wipe the roasting pan clean, return the shanks to the pan, and pour the sauce over the shanks. Let them cool at room temperature for an hour, cover well, and refrigerate for up to two days. To reheat, cover the pan with foil and set in a 325°F oven until the shanks are hot, 30 to 35 minutes. Transfer the shanks to a dish, then make the gremolata, adding it to the sauce and sprinkling it over the shanks.

Tip

Look for arrowroot in the spice section of your grocery store.

Risotto alla Milanese (Risotto with Parmesan & Saffron)
By James Peterson Fine Cooking Issue 50
Scott Phillips

Servings: six as a first course.
While it would be unfair to say that this is the risotto after which all others are derived—the Venetians provide plenty of competition—its lovely simplicity is hard to match. If you’re uneasy about risotto, this is a good recipe to start with because it’s simple and requires so few ingredients.

Ingredients
1 medium onion, very finely chopped
8 Tbs. unsalted butter
1 lb. (2 cups) arborio, vialone nano, or carnaroli rice, or other medium- or short-grain Italian rice
1/2 cup dry white wine
6 cups hot homemade or low-salt canned chicken broth; more as needed
1/2 tsp. saffron threads
1 cup finely grated parmesan, preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Nutritional Information

Preparation
In a heavy-based saucepan that’s large enough to hold the rice with plenty of room left over, cook the onion in 2 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat until it’s translucent and fragrant, about 5 minutes.
Stir in the rice and cook it over medium heat for about 3 minutes. Add the wine, 2 cups of broth, and the saffron. Turn the heat to high until the broth comes to a simmer and then adjust the heat to maintain a steady simmer.
Cook until most of the liquid has been absorbed, stirring every minute or two (there’s no need to stir constantly). Add another cup of broth and keep cooking, stirring, and adding broth until the rice is al dente but not raw or grainy in the middle (see tip on Stirring risotto).
When the rice is ready, stir in the cheese. Add a little more broth to give the risotto the consistency you like (from fairly tight to almost soupy). Off the heat, stir in the remaining 6 tablespoons butter. Season with salt and pepper and ladle onto heated plates or bowls.
Make Ahead Tips
If you try to make risotto ahead completely and then reheat it, it will be overcooked and mushy. Instead, you can cook it until it’s about halfway done—the rice should still be rather firm inside—and then spread it out on a baking sheet to stop cooking and cool. Cover the rice and set it aside at room temperature for up to two hours. When you’re ready to serve the risotto, return it to the pot and resume adding hot liquid until it’s perfectly al dente, a few minutes later.
If you have any leftover risotto, it’s delicious made into crunchy Risotto Cakes.

Yield: Yields four risotto cakes.
Servings: two as a main course, four as a side;
Reheated leftover risotto is dense and mushy and not very good. But leftover risotto shaped into little cakes, coated in crumbs, and fried to a crunchy golden brown is a special treat. You can experiement with different types of leftover risotto for these cakes, but it works best if there aren’t a lot of chunky ingredients in the risotto (such as shrimp or sausage). Try it with leftover Risotto alla Milanese or Spinach & Herb Risotto.

Ingredients
  • 1 cup dry breadcrumbs or panko
  • 1-1/3 cups cold leftover risotto
  • 3/4 cup vegetable or olive oil
Preparation
  • Put the breadcrumbs or panko in a wide, shallow bowl or plate. Scoop up about 1/3 cup of risotto at a time and shape into four patties, each about 3/4 inch thick and 3 inches wide. Coat the cakes in the breadcrumbs, pressing to help the crumbs adhere — it’s all right if the cake isn’t completely covered in crumbs.
  • Heat the oil in a 10-inch straight-sided sauté pan over medium heat. Fry the cakes until golden brown on both sides, about 3 minutes per side (if necessary, adjust the heat to keep the oil at the right temperature). Transfer with a slotted spatula to paper towels to drain for a few minutes before serving.
Serve with lightly dressed salad greens or steamed green beans.

CROUTONS

Croutons 

Baked Croutons 
Yield: Yields 2 to 3 cups.
Baguettes, white sandwich bread, and English muffins make great baked croutons.

Ingredients
  • 3 Tbs. unsalted butter or extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 large clove garlic, crushed and peeled
  • 4 oz. (2 to 3 cups) bread cubes;
  • 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
Nutritional Information

Preparation
  • Heat the oven to 350°F. In a small skillet, melt the butter or heat the oil over medium-low heat. Add the garlic clove, mashing and breaking it up slightly with a wooden spoon, and raise the heat to medium. Cook until the garlic just begins to brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat and discard the garlic clove. Put the bread cubes in a mixing bowl, drizzle the melted butter or oil all over, sprinkle on the salt, and toss to distribute evenly. Spread the cubes in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until golden all the way around, turning once or twice with a spatula, 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool.

SAUTÉED CROUTONS
Yield: Yields 2 to 3 cups.
Try this method on irregularly sized pieces from a rustic, airy loaf like ciabatta, or little squares of pita bread.

Ingredients
  • 2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  • 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 large clove garlic, crushed and peeled
  • 4 oz. (2 to 3 cups) bread cubes
  • 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
Nutritional Information
Preparation
  • In a 10-inch or larger skillet, heat the butter and oil over medium-low heat. When the butter is melted, add the garlic clove, mashing it and breaking it up slightly with a wooden spoon, and raise the heat to medium. Cook until the garlic just begins to turn brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Discard the garlic and add the bread cubes and salt. Toss to combine and cook, stirring frequently, until the bread is crisp and well browned on all sides, 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels to let cool.

Garlic Butter Croutons 

Yield: Yields about 4 cups.
Scatter these buttery croutons over a classic Caesar salad  or onto a creamy soup for a dash of crunch.

Ingredients
  • 4 large slices white sandwich bread, cut into 3/4- to 1-inch pieces (about 4 cups)
  • 3 oz. (6 Tbs.) unsalted butter
  • 2 large cloves garlic, smashed and peeled
  • Kosher salt
Nutritional Information

Preparation
  • Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.
    Put the bread cubes on a large rimmed baking sheet. Melt the butter in a 1- to 2-quart sauce pan over medium-low heat. Add the garlic, mashing it gently with the back of a wooden spoon, and raise the heat to medium. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the butter is fragrant (the garlic may start to brown around the edges), 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and discard the garlic. Drizzle the butter over the bread cubes. Toss with your hands until the cubes are evenly coated. (Don’t worry if some crumble.) Spread them in a single layer and sprinkle with 3/4 tsp. salt. Bake until the croutons are a deep golden-brown, 15 to 17 minutes. Let cool completely. (You can store the croutons in an air-tight container for up to 2 days or freeze for up to 3 weeks.)

Saturday, July 20, 2019

HULI HULI CHICKEN

Huli Huli Chicken
YIELD
4 to 6 servings
TIME
45 minutes, plus 8 hours’ marinating

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Andrew Purcell for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.
In 1955, Ernest Morgado, a Honolulu businessman, served a group of farmers grilled chicken that had been marinated in his mother’s teriyaki-style sauce. It was such a hit that he decided to market it with the name “huli huli.” Huli means “turn” in Hawaiian and refers to how it’s prepared: grilled between two racks and turned halfway through cooking. This simplified version calls for chicken pieces and a standard grill. The original recipe is a trade secret, but you can find many slightly different variations on the internet, typically including ginger, garlic, soy sauce, something sweet (honey, brown sugar or maple syrup) and something acidic (vinegar, white wine, lime juice or pineapple juice). This recipe is adapted from “Aloha Kitchen: Recipes from Hawai‘i” by Alana Kysar (Ten Speed, March 2019). It also works beautifully with boneless chicken thighs, but adjust your cooking time accordingly


INGREDIENTS
½ cup ketchup
½ cup soy sauce
½ cup packed light or dark brown sugar
¼ cup rice vinegar or apple cider vinegar
1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated
2 to 3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely grated
3 ½ to 4 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken pieces
Grapeseed or canola oil, for brushing the grill grate
Nutritional Information
Nutritional analysis per serving (6 servings)
734 calories; 47 grams fat; 12 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 20 grams monounsaturated fat; 10 grams polyunsaturated fat; 19 grams carbohydrates; 0 grams dietary fiber; 16 grams sugars; 54 grams protein; 212 milligrams cholesterol; 1551 milligrams sodium
Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.
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PREPARATION
1 In a large bowl or a gallon-size resealable plastic bag, combine the ketchup, soy sauce, brown sugar, rice vinegar, ginger and garlic, and stir or shake until combined. Reserve and refrigerate 1/2 cup of the mixture for basting the chicken later. Add the chicken to the remaining mixture, and stir or shake until evenly coated. If using a bowl, cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight, or at least 8 hours, turning the chicken at least once.
2 When you’re ready to cook, oil your grill grates well. Heat the grill to medium (for charcoal, the grill is ready when you can hold your hand 5 inches above the coals for 5 to 7 seconds). Add the chicken to the grill, cover, and cook 25 to 35 minutes, turning every 5 minutes to keep the chicken from burning, and basting it with the reserved marinade after you turn it, until cooked through. (Cook times will vary depending on sizes and cuts of chicken pieces, so be sure to check for doneness: Meat should not be pink and the juices should run clear.) Serve immediately.

FARRO E PEPE

Farro e Pepe

YIELD
4 to 6 servings
TIME
40 minutes
While cacio e pepe, the classic Roman dish, is simple — made with only pasta and its cooking water; cacio, or Pecorino Romano; and abundant freshly ground black pepper — it’s not always easy to make. The trick to getting a thick, creamy sauce lies in combining the cheese and pepper with starchy pasta water in just the right way; this usually requires a lot of erratic stirring and sweat. This version bucks tradition in favor of simplicity and, well, farro. The technique for the cheese paste comes from Flavio de Maio, a master of cucina Romana and producer of one of Rome’s most beloved bowls of cacio e pepe. Simply blend grated cheese and a little cold water with freshly ground pepper until they come together into a creamy paste. Then toss a spoonful or two into just-cooked farro and watch it melt like butter to coat the grains in a layer of salt, pepper, richness and tang. The farro’s chewy, satisfying texture is a perfect foil for the creaminess of the sauce. Keep the leftover paste in the fridge — stir a spoonful into grits, toss it with boiled green beans and, of course, use it for a bowl of cacio e pepe. Use the technique with other hard cheeses: Asiago, Parmesan and even clothbound Cheddar make for fantastic versions.

Sea salt
2 cups semi-pearled or pearled farro (about 13 1/2 ounces)
7 ½ ounces Pecorino Romano, finely grated (about 1 1/2 cups)
1 ¼ teaspoons coarsely grated black pepper, plus more for serving
¼ cup cold water, plus more if needed
1 Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Season generously with salt until the water is as salty as the sea. Add farro, and cook until al dente, about 15 to 18 minutes. Set a colander in the sink.
2 In the meantime, place pecorino and pepper in a medium bowl, and add ¼ cup cold water. Use an immersion blender to combine into a thick, smooth paste. Add more cold water if needed, one tablespoon at a time, to encourage blending. If you don’t have an immersion blender, use a food processor for this step.
3 When the farro is cooked, reserve 1 1/2 cups cooking water; transfer farro to colander to drain, then return to pot. Add 3/4 cup pecorino paste and 1/2 cup reserved cooking water, and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until cheese melts and coats farro with a glossy sheen. Taste, and add cooking water and more pecorino paste to taste until farro is the consistency of a loose risotto. If farro is properly seasoned but too thick, add warm tap water instead of salted cooking water to loosen.
4 Serve immediately, garnished with more pepper. Cover and refrigerate any remaining pecorino paste for up to 1 week. Use on pasta, farro or rice, or spread on toast.

WATERMELON SORBET

Watermelon Sorbet 

INGREDIENTS
  • a small watermelon
  • ½ cup yogurt
  • tablespoons sugar
  • tablespoon of lemon juice

PREPARATION
  1. Cut a small watermelon into small chunks (discarding the rind), and freeze them. When they’re frozen, put them in a food processor with 1/2 cup yogurt, 2 tablespoons sugar and a tablespoon of lemon juice. Process until just smooth, being careful not to let it become watery. Transfer to a shallow glass or ceramic dish, and freeze for at least an hour.

MARINATED BEETS

Marinated Beets

  • 1 ½ pounds golden beets about 7-8 medium-size beets
  • ½ cup water
  • 3 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar or your favorite vinegar
  • ½ teaspoon kosher salt more, to taste
  • ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper more, to taste
  • 1-2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 1-2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary thyme, dill, mint, chives or tarragon would also be delicious!
Instructions
  1. Preheat oven to 425˚F.
  2. Remove the tops of the beets, leaving about 1/2 inch of the stem. Wash the beets thoroughly and place them in a baking dish; they will fit in without crowding. Add 1/2 cup of water and cover tightly with foil.
  3. Bake for 45 to 1 hour, until the beets can be easily pierced with a sharp knife. If the beets are not all the same size, some may take longer. Remove from oven, uncover carefully (steam will be hot!) and allow to cool.
  4. Cut off the tops and bottom tails of the beets. Rub the peel gently with a dry paper towel to remove. The skin (peel) should slip right off.
  5. Cut beets in half, then in quarters or eighths, depending on size. Sprinkle with vinegar and season with salt and pepper. Stir gently. Allow to sit for at least 30 minutes to allow the beets to absorb the vinegar.
  6. Just before serving, taste and add a pinch of sugar if you note any bitterness. Stir gently. Season with a bit more salt and pepper if needed, then drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle herbs over the top.

GUINNESS PORTER CAKE

Besides Guinness, loads of dried fruit take center stage in this cake. And you can use any mix of dried or candied fruit you like, as long as it equals about 4 cups. This dump-and-stir recipe from my favorite Irish chef, Darina Allen, couldn't be easier to make. The bake time is long, but it's worth the wait. The cake develops a thick, brown crust and a moist interior filled with sticky, sweet fruit. Enjoy this recipe with whiskey butter for the ultimate pairing of beer and spirits.

Guinness Porter Cake
Yield: 16 slices

3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 cup packed brown sugar
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 cup golden raisins
1 cup raisins
1 cup dried cherries
1 cup chopped prunes
1 tablespoon grated orange zest (about 1 orange)
1 1/4 cups Guinness
2 large eggs, beaten
Orange-Whiskey Butter, for serving (recipe follows)

Preheat oven to 350 F. Butter an 8-by-3-inch round cake pan, line with parchment, and butter again.
Sift together flour, baking powder, salt, nutmeg and cinnamon over a large bowl. Crumble in brown sugar and mix well. Rub in butter until crumbly. Mix in the dried fruit.
Mix together the Guinness and beaten eggs. Make a well in the dry ingredients and pour in the wet mixture. Mix until well combined. Turn batter out into the parchment-lined pan, smoothing top. Bake for about 2 1/2 hours. A skewer inserted into the center should come out clean. Cool in the pan for about 25 minutes and turn out onto a cooling rack to cool completely. Serve with orange-whiskey butter. Store wrapped tightly in plastic wrap.

Orange-Whiskey Butter
Yield: 1/2 cup

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
1/4 cup confectioners' sugar
1 tablespoon grated orange zest (about 1 orange)
2 tablespoons Irish whiskey

Whip together butter and sugar, orange zest and whiskey until smooth.