Boiled Shrimp with White and Red Remoulade
Serves
48 jumbo shrimp, peeled, boiled, and chilled
Creole Red Remoulade Sauce (recipe follows)
Creole White Remoulade Sauce (recipe follows)
Shredded romaine or iceberg lettuce for serving
6 heads purple cabbage, inner leaves discarded, outer leaves intact to form "bowls," optional
Fresh parsley, lemon wedges, and halved cherry tomatoes for garnish, optional
Place half of shrimp and the Creole Red Remoulade Sauce in a large mixing bowl and toss gently to coat. Place remaining shrimp and Creole White Remoulade Sauce in another large mixing bowl and toss gently to coat.
Add shredded lettuce to each cabbage head, if using, to form a nest for the shrimp. Evenly divide shrimp with two sauces among cabbage bowls. Alternatively, divide lettuce and shrimp among six chilled salad plates. Garnish with parsley, lemon and cherry tomatoes, if desired.
Creole Red Remoulade Sauce
Makes about 2-1/2 cups
1/2 cup finely chopped celery
4 green onions, finely chopped
1/4 cup finely chopped parsley
1/3 cup finely chopped iceberg lettuce
1/2 cup finely chopped yellow onion
1/4 cup Creole mustard
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon paprika
1/4 cup olive oil
Salt
Cayenne pepper
Thoroughly combine celery, green onions, parsley, lettuce, onion, Creole mustard, lemon juice and paprika. Whisk in olive oil in a slow drizzle to emulsify.
Chill mixture for 6-8 hours or overnight. Add salt and cayenne pepper to taste.
Creole White Remoulade Sauce
Makes about 2-1/2 cups
1 cup Creole mustard
1 cup mayonnaise
1/4 teaspoon minced garlic
4 green onions, finely chopped (white and green parts)
1/4 cup finely chopped yellow onion
1/4 cup finely chopped celery
Combine all ingredients. Chill mixture for 6-8 hours or overnight.
The menu for "Butcher's Breakfast," which in the old days was prepared for the butchers that began their days in the Quarter before dawn always featured eggs, such as this dish.
Eggs Decatur
Serves 6
2 large Russet potatoes, peeled finely diced
1 tablespoon salt
1/2 pound bacon or 1/4 cup rendered bacon fat
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 red bell peppers, finely diced
1 green bell peppers, finely diced
1 pound Madame Castet's Boiled Brisket of Beef, finely chopped (recipe follows)
Creole seasoning
Vegetable oil for pan searing
12 Poached Eggs (recipe follows)
Classic Hollandaise Sauce (recipe follows)
Cover potatoes with water. Add salt. Bring to boil and cook until very tender. Drain potatoes and set aside.
Cook bacon in large skillet over medium-high heat until crisp and fat rendered. Remove bacon with slotted spoon and reserve for another use.
Add onion to skillet and cook until translucent, about 4 minutes. Add peppers and cook until soft, about 10 minutes. Add potatoes, brisket and Creole seasoning, to taste. Cook until just heated through. Remove from heat, and using potato masher or large wooden spoon, mash mixture into a paste-like consistency. Allow mixture to rest until cool enough to handle.
Preheat the oven to 200 degrees.
Form meat-and-potato mixture into 12 3-inch patties.
Add 2 tablespoons oil to large skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches if necessary, brown cakes on both sides, about 3 minutes per side.
Place patties on an ovenproof plate and set in the warm oven.
For each portion, place 2 patties on a serving plate. Top each patty with a poached egg. Drizzle each portion generously with Hollandaise Sauce.
Poached Eggs
Serves 6
12 cups water
6 tablespoons white vinegar
12 large eggs
Bring water to a boil over high heat; reduce to a simmer. Add vinegar. Working in batches, gently crack eggs into water. Simmer until poached, about 2 minutes for soft-set yolks. Remove eggs from water and drain.
Classic Hollandaise Sauce
Makes 3 cups
6 egg yolks
1/2 teaspoon salt
Pinch of cayenne
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoon red-wine vinegar
1-1/2 pound butter, melted
In double-boiler set over medium heat, combine egg yolks with salt, cayenne, lemon juice and vinegar. Whisk ingredients continuously until mixture has increased in volume and achieved a consistency that coats whisk. Slowly drizzle in melted butter, whisking continuously. If sauce appears too thick, add a few drops of cold water to achieve proper consistency.Boiled Beef Brisket at Tujague's restaurant is served with a spicy horseradish sauce.
This brisket also can be served with a spicy horseradish sauce, as it is at Tujague's.
Madame Castet's Boiled Brisket of Beef
Serves 6 to 8
4 pound beef brisket, trimmed
1 gallon water
1/4 cup salt
12 black peppercorns
3 bay leaves
2 ribs celery, chopped
2 turnips, peeled and quartered
2 carrots, peeled and sliced
2 onions, sliced
1/2 small head cabbage, chopped
2 leeks, thoroughly washed, sliced (white and pale-green parts)
2 large tomatoes, preferably Creole, quartered
Creole mustard
Place brisket and water in large Dutch oven or deep soup pot, and add salt, peppercorns and bay leaves. Bring to boil over high heat.
Add celery, turnips, carrots, onions, cabbage, leeks and tomatoes. Let pot return to a boil, then reduce to simmer and cook until beef is tender, about 2-1/2 hours. As it cooks, skim surface of the water frequently to remove any residue that accumulates.
Remove brisket and reserve the cooking liquid and vegetables for other uses.
Liver à la Begue
Serves 4 to 6
12 slices bacon
1 tablespoons butter, plus more as needed
1 onion, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon flour
Salt and pepper to taste
1 pound calf's liver, cut into 1/2-inch slices with all membrane removed
1/4 cup stock (or water)
Creamy Stone-Ground Grits (recipe follows)
In skillet, fry bacon until just crisp. Remove and reserve.
Add butter to bacon grease. Add onions and saute until they are golden brown, about 6 minutes. Remove and reserve.
Season flour with salt and pepper. Lightly dust the calf's liver with the seasoned flour. Add more butter or oil to the skillet if needed and brown liver on each side, about 4 minutes in all. Top liver with onions and add 1/4 cup water or stock to pan. Cover and simmer for 5 minutes. Top with bacon and serve with Creamy Stone-Ground Grits.
Creamy Stone-Ground Grits
Serves 6
2 cups white stone-ground grits
4 cups water
4 cups whole milk
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/2 stick unsalted butter, cut into pieces
2 teaspoons kosher salt
Cover grits with water in large bowl and whisk vigorously. Let stand 30 seconds, and then skim any chaff that has floated to surface with a fine-mesh sieve.
Meanwhile, bring water and milk to a simmer in a 4- to 5-quart heavy saucepan.
Drain grits well in a fine-mesh sieve and whisk into simmering milk mixture. Reduce heat to low and simmer grits, partially covered, stirring often with heatproof rubber spatula, until grits are tender and thickened to the consistency of loose oatmeal, about 1-1/4 hours, stirring frequently. If grits become too thick before they are tender and creamy, thin with hot water, up to 1/2 cup.
Stir in cream, butter, and salt. Remove from heat and keep warm, covered, up to 20 minutes.
Tooker discovered long-forgotten techniques that are worth reviving by today's cook.
Madame Elizabeth Kettenring Dutreuil Begue, often called New Orleans' first celebrity chef, ran her restaurant in the building that now houses Tujaque's. She transformed the soft cheese normally served at breakfast into this rich dessert. A recipe for Creole Cream cheese follows, but the product is available in groceries. (Above, read more about the early history of Begue and how Tooker re-created her recipes for the cookbook, "Mme. Begue's Recipes of Old New Orleans Creole Cookery.)
Creole Cream Cheese Pie
Serves 6 to 8
2 9-inch piecrusts, uncooked
1 3/ 4 cups Creole Cream Cheese (recipe follows)
2 eggs
1/2 cup sugar
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Line a pie plate with 1 piecrust. Cut the other into 1/2-inch strips and reserve.
Beat together Creole Cream Cheese, eggs, and sugar. Pour mixture into pie plate. Adorn the top with the reserved crust strips woven into a lattice design.
Bake until pie is set and top is golden, 35-40 minutes. Cool to room temperature before serving.
Creole Cream Cheese
Makes about 4 pints
2 quart skim milk
1/2 cup buttermilk
Pinch of salt
5 drops liquid vegetable rennet (available in health-food stores)
Combine all ingredients in large stainless or glass bowl. Cover lightly with plastic wrap and leave out on kitchen counter at room temperature for 18-24 hours.
You will find 1 large curd cheese floating in whey. Use a slotted spoon to transfer solid curd into 4 pint-sized cheese molds (or make your own by poking holes in plastic pint containers).
Put the molds on a rack in a roasting pan and again cover lightly with plastic wrap. Refrigerate and allow to drain for 6-8 hours before turning over molds. Store cheeses in tightly covered containers for up to 2 weeks.
No comments:
Post a Comment