SAINT JOSEPH DAY

St. Joseph Day

A hammer, a chalice, pine cone-shaped pastry and fava beans take on special meaning on March 19, which is celebrated with St. Joseph Day altars inside homes, schools, churches and community centers throughout the New Orleans area.

"In pre-literate societies, one way to talk about ideology and theology was to use symbols," said Xavier University's Kim Vaz, who has worked with the students on St. Joseph altars for three years. "It gives people a chance to understand and mediate and reflect on what it signifies in the tradition."

The symbolism of St. Joseph altars can convey deep meaning, she said. And "deep" is a good word to describe the altars, because they are laden with all kinds of representational items. 

Here, we've gathered a guide to the meanings behind the foods and objects on St. Joseph altars, but, keep in mind, these explanations are open to interpretation and vary by tradition. What is listed may or may not be what that item means in every family, church or community. For example, some native New Orleanians of Sicilian descent have never heard of stealing a lemon from an altar to gain a husband, but others swear by it.

THE BASICS

The altar is built on three levels, representing the Blessed Trinity. A statue or photo of St. Joseph and sometimes the Holy Family -- Jesus, Mary, Joseph, is placed on the highest tier. 

A branch of sago palm outside the door signifies an altar is inside.

The altar is lavishly covered with prepared dishes, fruit, vegetables, flowers, candles and wine, set strategically and artistically around symbolic items.

The altar is blessed by a priest in a special ceremony. 

Many people pray at the altars. In addition, slips of paper are available for those who wish to write a petition to St. Joseph.

Colors associated with St. Joseph are said to be red or gold. 

White tablecloths stand for purity. In some traditions, the cloth may represent a specific culture. The altar on the at St. Xavier University campus has kente cloth to represent the school's African-American heritage.

One custom called "tupa tupa" or "knock knock," involves children representing the Holy Family (as well as accompanying angels or other saints). They re-enact knocking on doors seeking shelter, as the family did before Christ's birth. When they knock on the door where the altar is spread, they are welcomed to a special table set with small portions of food from the altar. 

Visitors may leave monetary donations, which are given to the poor. Often, the food on the altars is donated to the poor as well. According to the materials of the American Italian Cultural Center, no one should benefit financially from an altar.

Pastries, breads and cakes are the most abundant items on most altars. 

PASTRIES 

Flaming heart cuccidata made by Sandra Scalise Juneau, who has taught dozens of classes in the art practiced by her grandmother. NOLA.com|Times-Picayune archive

Cuccidata are large, ornate work-of-art pastries, with a fig filling showing through the elaborately cut crust. Look for cuccidata that symbolize the following:

The Monstrance: Holds the sacred host on the altar

Hearts, flaming hearts: Sacred heart of Jesus.

Chalice: Consecration of the bread and wine at the Last Supper

Wreaths: Eternal love, or, sometimes the crown of thorns

St. Lucy's Eye Pies: The pies, which are unnerving to some, are relatively rare. Sometimes the pie has a top crust with eyes cut out; sometimes it has ball-shaped eyes set on top of a fig filling. St. Lucy, patron saint of the blind and visually-impaired, is affiliated with St. Joseph as she was another Sicilian saint. A large statue of St. Lucy holding her eyes on a plate can be seen on one side of the outer aisle in the St. Joseph Church on Tulane Avenue. 

BREADS

Elaborate baked Italian bread can be seen in many shapes, made by individuals as well as specialty bakeries. Salt dough, inedible decorations, are common as well. 

Blessed bread: Sometimes a little gift bag given to visitors holds a piece of Italian bread that has been blessed by the priest on the altar. The bread is often saved for protection from storms. When storms threaten, prayers are said and the bread is thrown out a window.

Pupaculova: Bread dough shaped like a basket around one or more dyed eggs symbolizes the coming of Easter. 

The tools of the carpenter interpreted in salt dough on the altar at St. Joseph's Church in Gretna. NOLA.com|Times-Picayune archive

Breads that symbolize St. Joseph the carpenter: Dough shaped as a staff, sandals, beard, saw, hammer, ladder, nail and beard are common. One church on the West Bank sets out a set of exquisitely made small tools in a work box, made of inedible salt dough.

Mudrica: This is the "sawdust" of the carpenter, St. Joseph, made from bread crumbs and used to garnish the traditional pasta dish, Pasta Milanese. Bread crumbs are browned in a skillet and, sometimes, sweetened.

Fava beans: Fava beans are the central food of the altar, as they are the crop that thrived and fed the starving Sicilians. They are considered a lucky charm. Baskets of fava beans are on altars, sometimes gilded, sometimes painted in Italian colors of green, white and red. Often, one is tucked into a bag of cookies for departing viewers. The custom is to carry a fava bean in your wallet or handbag, for continued prosperity. 

COOKIES

Also known as "cakes." Uncounted hundreds of pounds of flour are transformed each year into Italian cookies for St. Joseph's altars, and a bag of cookies often is given to visitors as they depart. Common kinds of cookies are:

Seed cakes, also known as seed cookies, rolled in brown, naturally colored sesame seeds. 

Fig cookies decorated in the colors of the Italian flag. NOLA.com|Times-Picayune archive

Fig cookies, filled with the same yummy fig filling as their big brother cuccidata, usually decorated with colored sprinkles.

Pignolata symbolize pine cones played with by the child Jesus. Made from bits of fried dough, then stuck together with hot syrup in cone shapes, similar to the French croquembouche. The shape varies from altar to altar. 

Pizzelles are flat, thin cookies made with an special iron. 

Dozens of other kinds of cookies are seen as well. Anise is a favorite flavoring in cooks as well as other altar foods.

CAKES

Beautifully decorated cakes of all kinds are seen on the altars. Many are book-shaped to represent the Bible. The confections may depict the Holy Family or congratulate St. Joseph on his day. Also, portrait cakes are memorials to relatives, who have died. At some altars, a separate table holds the memorials to deceased family and friends, which may include photographs as well as cakes.

Another common cake is a lamb-shaped cakes that represent the Lamb of God.  

MEATLESS DISHES

Traditionally, the altars do not include meat. This may be because St. Joseph's feast day falls during Lent, although there are other theories. Stuffed artichokes, stuffed vegetables and the omelets called "frosias" are commonly seen. (Frosias are made with a variety of vegetables, including cardoon, a thistle-like plant.)

It is common, however, to find seafood on the altars. You might see lobsters, whole crabs, oysters and other seafood, as well as baked, decorated, trophy-size redfish or other Gulf fish. The American Italian Cultural Center reports that 12 whole trout represent the 12 apostles or Jesus feeding the multitudes. 

As one guide to the altars notes, "Nothing is too good for St. Joseph."