STUFATO di VERDURE

Use a heavy pan and don't shy away from taking the initial sauté to a full rich brown to give this dish its full flavor. Then, keeping the heat low, cover the pan tightly with a lid or aluminum foil to hold in juices and steam. Along with, or instead of olives, season Stufato with any one or a combination of the following: capers, anchovies, hot peppers, herbs, cured pork, wine, or vinegar. Cook Stufato several hours ahead and reheat, or eat it at room temperature. Grated cheese or a little extra olive oil drizzled over the top is wonderful. A rough multigrain bread is perfect with Stufato.
Extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 medium onion, thinly sliced
3 large fresh sage leaves
1 tightly packed teaspoon each fresh marjoram and basil leaves, chopped 1/2 pound green beans, trimmed and halved
3 small pale inner stalks celery with leaves, coarsely chopped
9 small (2 pounds) zucchini, cut into 1-inch chunks
1 large (1/2 pound) yellow sweet pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into 1-inch dice
6 oil-cured black olives, pitted and minced
2 large cloves garlic, thinly sliced
3 to 4 medium (about 3/4 pound) ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped (not seeded), or 1 14-ounce can whole tomatoes, completely drained
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Lightly film the bottom of a 12-inch sauté pan (not nonstick) with olive oil. Set over high heat. Add the onion, herbs, beans, celery, zucchini, sweet pepper, and olives, lower the heat to medium, and sauté until the zucchini is golden brown.

2. Stir in the garlic and tomatoes, crushing canned tomatoes with your hands as you go. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook 55 minutes, or until the vegetables are extremely tender and richly flavored. Adjust the heat to keep the vegetables from scorching, and add a little water if necessary.

3. If the stew seems too liquid, uncover and cook over medium-high heat a few minutes to reduce and concentrate flavors. Taste for seasoning. Serve warm or at room temperature.