RÖSTI POTATOES

If Plato had imagined hash browns, they'd have been rosti: good potatoes coarsely grated, pressed, and fried. In the dish's native Switzerland, recipes include bacon, rosemary, caraway seeds, eggs, pasta, cheese, even coffee. These variations can be delicious, but we found the definitive version in Bern, at Restaurant Della Casa–golden, impeccable, ideal. –from "Swiss Bliss" (January/February 1998)

SERVES 4

Ingredients

2 ¹⁄₄ lb. russet potatoes (about 3 large)

2 tbsp. lard or unsalted butter

2 tbsp. canola oil

1 tbsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste

Instructions

Place potatoes in a large saucepan, cover with cold water, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat; cook until tender, about 30 minutes. Drain potatoes, and set aside to cool for about 10 minutes. Peel potatoes, then refrigerate until chilled, at least 1 hour. Grate potatoes using the large holes on a cheese grater; set aside.

Heat lard and oil in an 8" nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. When lard has melted, add potatoes, sprinkle with salt, and mix well, coating potatoes with fat. Using a metal spatula, gently press potatoes, molding them to fit the skillet. Cook, shaking skillet occasionally, until edges are golden brown, about 20 minutes.

Cover skillet with a large inverted plate, invert the rösti over onto plate, then slide it back into the skillet, cooked side up; cook until golden brown on the bottom, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board, sprinkle with salt, and cut into wedges to serve.